Tested: the recovery of the La Canne en Ville restaurant


Jan Scheidtweiler sits at the new La Canne en Ville in Brussels: very good, but too sophisticated.

Whoever grabs it all loses. This proverb also applies in the kitchen: a chef who absolutely wants to seduce all palates serves too refined preparations, a defect from which Kevin Lejeune suffers. Last month, the chef left his pleasant address in Ixelles to settle on Avenue Louise, in the Steigenberger hotel, a luxurious setting. But behold, the new Cannes en Ville lacks conviviality and the astronomical prices make you regret the old address even more. The menu, in fact, does not offer a single appetizer for less than 40 euros and the first courses cost between 62 and 95 euros. Choose a less expensive menu? Missed: the six-course menu costs 160 euros and the seven-course menu costs 190 euros.

© Kris Vlegels

From the very first tastes, the chef shows how much he wants to please his customers. From crunchy biscuit garnished with nasturtium leaves to lovage powder on buckwheat emulsion, the delicate miniatures of him betray Benedictine work in the kitchen. The pleasure, unfortunately, is not always there: the veal tartare tartare, for example, is dominated by the flavor of roasted peanuts.

Absolutely fantastic, the lamb shows a harmonious relationship with the anchovies.

The voice also suffers from an excess of ambition. The tiny serving of white asparagus, the main ingredient, is mashed with a very tasty buttermilk and tarragon juice, sure, but too potent.

Then it’s up to the beautiful smoked shrimp with rosemary to undergo this suffocating treatment. As soon as the glass bell is gently lifted at the table, the typical aroma of this Mediterranean aromatic plant spreads throughout the room and the delicate crustaceans cannot compete with this olfactory and gustatory power.

The main course, on the other hand, is absolutely fantastic. Lamb shows a harmonious relationship with anchovies, in the spirit of Roman cuisine. It is served surrounded by new peas surrounded by crispy potatoes and topped with a wild garlic coulis, which brings a nice spring freshness to the plate.

The dessert is also sublime, a tartlet with marinated strawberries, black sesame and balsamic vinegar. Unfortunately, these two high-altitude preparations fail to erase the disappointment aroused by the new Canne en Ville. Maybe the chef should try to do a little less.

Street address
The barrel in the city. Avenue Louise 77, 1000 Brussels.
Such. 02 / 347.29.26
Closed on Sunday and Monday.
432 euros for two covers.
Jonathan Torralba curates a fine European wine list, including a Rüner Veltliner from the Pichler-Krützler estate (64 euros). Tasty glass of Montepulciano Salcheto (12 euros).
Soft rugs, opulent fabrics, and well-spaced tables create a silky, tranquil atmosphere. On a quiet evening, the noise level did not exceed 53 dB.
We return?
Unfortunately, the addition is a little (too) salty and is unnecessarily too refined to make you want to repeat the experience.

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