Lucas Carton, restaurant-museum like no other

Champenois by adoption Paul-François Vranken, producer of white wines with noble sparkling wine, was lucky enough to offer the cuisine of Lucas Carton to the genius chef Hugo Bourny for a planned revival of this beautiful restaurant: an admirable institution.

Nothing is more difficult for a traditional chef than giving life, through the interplay of casseroles and flavors, to a great Parisian table that had its moment of glory in the mid-20th century.And century.

A unique restaurant, three centuries of existence

The official inauguration of the restaurant dates back to the construction of the building by the architect Charpentier in 1839. But it was in 1860 that its new owner, Mr. Augis, he named it La Taverne de France, which became a popular spot throughout – Napoleon III’s Paris.

The facade of the Lucas Carton restaurant. | The Sunday photographer

In 1880, the restaurant was acquired by Mr. Scaliet and renamed Lucas. In 1924 Francis Carton then bought the factory and added his name to that of Lucas, attracting art lovers from all over the world to his home: he then became the illustrious Lucas Carton. He was responsible for the construction of the halls on the first floor with private access through the Passage de la Madeleine, then very popular with politicians during the IIIAnd Republic.

All the woodwork in the restaurant was done by Louis Majorelle and took four years of work. They were carved from maple, sycamore and Ceylon lemon wood, in harmony with the spirit of the times. They have since been included in the Cultural Heritage Inventory of Historic Monuments and are in perfect condition, as are the bronze sculptural sconces with a woman’s face affixed to the walls. For true art lovers, Lucas Carton remains a restaurant like no other.

Tables set at the Lucas Carton restaurant. | The Sunday photographer

Fortunately, the restaurant-museum so dear to André Malraux has always been owned by art connoisseurs; the elegant table, of true refinement, remains a tribute to beauty and good taste.

Furthermore, for decades, Lucas Carton has had the best clientele in the capital, that of Maxim’s, La Tour d’Argent, Lapérouse, Grand Véfour, Ledoyen. Francis Carton was a truly cultured and demanding restorer. He was not himself a chef like Louis Vaudable, owner of Maxim’s, for a long time the best restaurant in Paris.

In 1933 the Michelin guide awarded three stars to Lucas Carton, who was one of the first to obtain them in Paris. After 1945, Marc Soustelle gave Lucas Carton his international fame.

In the 1960s, a whole generation of young cooks came to do his apprenticeship, including Alain Senderens, who took over the restaurant from 1985 to 2013.

Noble cuisine continued to play a decisive role in Lucas Carton’s star status. For Gault & Millau, Lucas Carton was the standard-bearer of classic and modern cuisine lightened by Alain Senderens, creator of the vanilla lobster: a delight that brought Lucas Carton to the top in the second half of the 20th century.And century.

The current score of conductor Hugo Bourny

For more than fifteen years Hugo Bourny has trained with the best chefs: a remarkable passage with Arnaud Donckele at the Vague d’Or, a common love for people and the simplicity of fine products that will create a sincere and sustainable relationship. Then he joined chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s kitchen and spent nearly nine years alongside the brilliant Valentinoise. There he learns the rigor, the excellence, the constant search for the quintessence of the products.

Hugo Bourny, chef of the Lucas Carton restaurant. | Ballad Studio

In 2019 he works for another inspiring star: Hélène Darroze. Arrived during the year, he pays particular attention to accompany the chef and owner of the Jòia and Marsan restaurants in the development of his gastronomic table. The kitchen is crowned with success in 2021 with the achievement of a second star in Paris.

But Hugo Bourny wants a new project. The Vranken family, owner of Lucas Carton, meets him and the current passes very quickly between them, which will give life to this new collaboration.

With the best of the French terroir, with the complicity of the women and men he works for, the chef of Lucas Carton is constantly looking for balanced accords on his plate.

Hugo Bourny proposes a cuisine of emotions, a cuisine of intuition as he likes to say.

His conception of the kitchen: an adventure between people and products. From there the recipe will be born that will sometimes reflect the chef’s path, his history, his roots, sometimes his mood, his terroir, or simply the emotion of a moment.

Bringing a wind of freedom to this sleeping beauty is Chef Hugo Bourny’s current project.

Second in value, this great chef with the hands of a magician has followed the progress of highly talented chefs step by step, and is committed to rethinking the good cuisine of Lucas Carton, a skilful combination of tradition and modernity. Lucas Carton is him, his style, purity and generosity: the third star is on the horizon.

Seven excellent dishes from chef Bourny and Jordan Talbot, an excellent pastry chef

Crab cake from the Breton coastalmond velvet with cedar garum, celery and sea urchins

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, the custard. | The Sunday photographer

Leek from Laurent’s garden in Val d’Oisefreshly marinated sea bass and nasturtium, sparkling ginger broth

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, leek from Laurent’s Val d’Oise garden. | The Sunday photographer

The Brillat Savarin selected by the Alexandre farm in thin ravioli with yellow wine, mushrooms, hazelnuts and Douglas firs

Florian and Marie’s scallops poached in fresh butter, clams, glasswort and saffron

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Florian and Marie’s scallops. | The Sunday photographer

Monkfish from our wholesaler Gauthier marinated in wild garlic then smoked and seasoned, Chartreuse and white fisherman’s asparagus

Arnaud Billon beef cured by us rubbed with seaweed and katsuobushi (dried bonito), béarnaise, glasswort and celery chips

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Arnaud Billon’s beef. | The Sunday photographer

Etienne and Perrine Schaeller’s Meyer lemon in jam and confit, almond sorbet and orange blossom

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Étienne and Perrine Schaeller’s Meyer lemon. | The Sunday photographer

Where

Caffè Sudan Rume by Hippolyte Courty in a thin crunchy pastry, textures and Kalamansi sorbet

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Stéphanie Leveau’s Perche poultry. | The Sunday photographer

And also: Poultry Perche by Stéphanie Leveau black garlic, fermented Jerusalem artichoke, garlic flower oil and cardamom, The grand cru chocolate of Nicolas Berger from Venezuelamace cream, mint sorbet, cocoa nibs.

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Nicolas Berger’s Venezuelan grand cru chocolate. | The Sunday photographer

“Around the caviar” menu.

Caviar of the first Baerii & lobster in fine carpaccio, raw smoked cream, Meyer lemon, Tasmanian pepper leaves

Prestige Osetra caviar and the cupboard cake

Vintage Baerii caviar and leek from the garden

Caviar from Osetra and Arnaud Billon beef

Caviar of Baerii origin and coconut, fruit juice in sorbet, creamy lemon and oyster leaf

At the Lucas Carton restaurant, Baerii Origin caviar and coconut. | The Sunday photographer

9 place de la Madeleine 75008 Paris. Tel .: 01 42 65 22 90. Menu for 95 euros in four courses, 135 euros in five courses, 185 euros in seven courses. All Caviar Menu at 260 euros. Card from 180 to 250 euros. Full in the evening. Closed on Sunday and Monday.

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