How much is Chef Adrien Descouls’s Origines restaurant worth (Le Broc, 63)? Atabula went there to eat – ATABULA

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After experiencing sumptuous Parisian cuisine, Auvergnat Adrien Descouls returned to his homeland to open his Origines table in 2018, in the perched village of Le Broc. After earning a first star in 2020, the turbine leader has set his sights higher. How much is this table worth? Atabula went there to eat.

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The environment
At the top of the village of Le Broc, nestled in the ruins of a castle, the Adrien Descouls building is imposing. Ground floor bedrooms, upstairs dining room and bird’s eye view of an exceptional panorama. One of the best you can see from a restaurant in France.

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The internal frame
After the entrance, you have to take a few steps to discover the room on the right. Nice hardwood floors, lots of white, minimalist and modern decor, white tablecloths, and comfy seats. The light falls on the table and the eyes are lost in the distant horizon. Sober and sublime.

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Service
Like the room, it is designed with sobriety and a certain solemnity that corresponds to what customers expect from this type of place.

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Pork trotter donut with black beer; fine red cabbage tart; zander flower, with carrot and cow curd
White asparagus served hot, pike egg and sheep curd
Morel mushrooms stuffed with sweetbreads, Noilly Prat sauce and wild garlic
Lentil salad, Sturia caviar and warm sliced ​​vinaigrette
Sauce of alis char confit, chicory and ice cider
Pigeon in a salt crust with marjoram, pea salad and juice creamed with the extraction of the pods
Raw milk pre-dessert
Rhubarb in two interpretations
The cylinder of chocolate tulakalum, caramel and strawberry juice

The plate
As the service explains, the meal is experienced as a mountain hike, with its power ups and gentle descents. In fact, there is that, with three appetizers that bode well for the trip: the powerful delicacy of the ‘black beer zampone donut’ (the best in the region according to local customers), the surprising acidity of the ‘thin red cabbage tart’ , and the delicacy of the ‘zander flower, with carrot and cow curd’. A nice start jump that makes you want to follow the great culinary hiking trail with three successful entrances. First of all, the white trilogy “white asparagus served hot, pike eggs and sheep curd” which is experienced as a first restful stop, before attacking two dizzying heights: the ultra gluttony of “morels stuffed with sweetbreads, Noilly Prat sauce and wild garlic. “that we eat and season until we run out, before moving on to an exceptional” salad of lentils, caviar of Sturia and warm sliced ​​vinaigrette “. The two main courses follow, classic in their construction but with powerful flavors, whether they are “Alis char confit, endive and iced cider sauce” and “pigeon in salt crust with marjoram, pea salad and juice whipped with the extraction of pods. “. Between the two, the” vegetable digestive break “proves invigorating. After a platter of regional and concise cheeses, the switch to sweets suddenly brings the eater back down, with unfinished desserts, whether it is” rhubarb in two interpretations “or the” cylinder of chocolate tulakalum, caramel and strawberry juice “. But there is no doubt that this is only a temporary one since a change of pastry chef has just been announced. No criticism instead of the perfect ‘Auvergnat cake, 42 % cream and seasonal fruit compote ‘which concludes the meal as a delicacy.

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Cellar side
Something to have fun, with beautiful bottles at very low prices.

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The overall experience

Origines has the charm of these tables at the end of the world, for which you have to plan, organize, get there. Then, once there, there is the grandiose spectacle of the panorama, the modern residence located in the ruins of the castle, then the vertiginous room. The experience of this table therefore begins well before sitting down. And, of course, this reinforces his expectation; a double-edged expectation. But the eater can hardly be disappointed with the quality of Chef Adrien Descouls’ cuisine which gives it everything he has had for many years. If we forget the desserts (and, we repeat, the quality should soon be there), the culinary service stands up to the comparison with the sublime panorama: there is something to answer on the plate, with gracious products, gluttony and a certain classicism that perfectly satisfies the expectations of customers who flock to come to Origines. A nice table that still has a lot underfoot to cross a few steps and look up.

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The table and the guides
One red Michelin star, 15/20 and three Gault & Millau hats – the guides are remarkably aligned in their ratings. A big problem though: the absence of the green star for an ultra-busy table, level three of the eco-friendly label. We really wonder what the inspectors are up to! Perhaps they are too obsessed with good local cuisine and forget to inquire about the commitments of Adrien Descouls and his team.


Practice
Link to the Origines restaurant website

Photos
RPF | DR

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